Brianna De Souza, MD

Pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB)(also known as razor bumps or shaving bumps)¹ is a skin condition that consists of papules resulting from ingrown hairs.² In more severe cases, papules become pustules, then abscesses, which can cause scarring.^1,2 The condition can be distressing for patients, with considerable negative impact on their daily lives.³ The condition also is associated with shaving-related stinging, burning, pruritus, and cuts on the skin.⁴

Pseudofolliculitis barbae is most common in men of African descent due to the curved nature of the hair follicle,^2,5,6 with an estimated prevalence in this population of 45% to 83%,^1,6 but it can affect men of other ethnicities.⁷ A genetic polymorphism in a gene encoding a keratin specific to the hair follicle also has been found to predispose some individuals to PFB.⁵ When hair from a curved or destabilized hair follicle is cut to form a sharp tip, it is susceptible to extrafollicular and/or transfollicular penetration,^5,6,8 as illustrated in Figure 1.

With extrafollicular or transfollicular penetration, the hair shaft re-enters or retracts into the dermis, triggering an inflammatory response that may be exacerbated by subsequent shaving.² Few studies have been published that aim to identify potential shaving solutions for individuals with PFB who elect to or need to continue shaving.

A new razor technology comprising 2 blades separated by a bridge feature has been designed specifically for men with razor bumps (SkinGuard [Procter & Gamble]). The SkinGuard razor redistributes shaving pressure so that there is less force from the blades on the skin and inflamed lesions than without the bridge, as seen in Figure 2. The razor has been designed to protect the skin from the blades, thereby minimizing the occurrence of new lesions and allowing existing lesions to heal.

The primary purpose of this study was to assess the appearance of males with razor bumps and shaving irritation when using the new razor technology in a regular shaving routine. The secondary objective was to measure satisfaction of the shaving experience when using the new razor by means of assessing itching, burning, and stinging using the participant global severity assessment (PGSA) and the impact on quality of life (QOL) measures.

Methods

Participants—Eligible participants were male, aged 20 to 60 years, and had clinically diagnosed PFB as well as symptoms of skin irritation from shaving. Participants were recruited from a dermatology clinic and via institutional review board–approved advertising.

Those eligible for inclusion in the study had a shaving routine that comprised shaving at least 3 times a week using a wet-shave, blade-razor technique accompanied by only a shave gel or foam. In addition, eligible participants had mild to moderate symptoms of skin irritation (a minimum of 10 razor bumps) from shaving based on investigator global severity assessment (IGSA) rating scales and were willing to shave at least 5 times a week during the study period. Participants could continue certain topical and systemic interventions for their skin.

Participants were excluded from the study if they had an underlying inflammatory disease that could manifest with a skin rash or were using any of these medications: topical benzoyl peroxide, topical clindamycin, topical retinoids, or oral antibiotics.

Study Design—A prospective, open-label study was conducted over a period of 12 weeks at a single site in the United States. Investigators instructed participants to shave 5 or more times per week with the test razor and to keep a daily shaving journal to track the number of shaves and compliance.

Participants were evaluated at the baseline screening visit, then at 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Evaluations included an investigator lesion count, the IGSA, and the PGSA. The PGSA was used to evaluate subjective clinical measurements (ie, indicate how much postshave burning/itching/stinging the participant was experiencing). The impact of shaving on daily life was evaluated at the baseline screening visit and at 12 weeks with the Participant Quality of Life Questionnaire comprised of 22 QOL statements. eTable 1 summarizes the investigator assessments used in the study, and eTable 2 summarizes the participant self-assessments. Both tables include the scale details and results interpretation for each assessment.

The study was approved by the local institutional review board, and all participants provided written informed consent in accordance with Title 21 of the Code of Federal Regulations, Part 50.

Study Visits—At the baseline screening visit, participants provided written informed consent and completed a prestudy shave questionnaire concerning shaving preparations, techniques, and opinions. Participants also provided a medical history, including prior and concomitant medications, and were evaluated using the inclusion/exclusion criteria. Investigators explained adverse event reporting to the participants. Participants were provided with an adequate supply of test razors for the 12-week period.

Data Analysis—Means and SDs were calculated for the study measures assessed at each visit. Analyses were performed evaluating change from baseline in repeated-measures analysis of variance models. These models were adjusted for baseline levels of the outcome measure and visit number. The magnitude of change from baseline was evaluated against a null hypothesis of 0% change. This longitudinal model adjusted for any potential differing baseline levels among participants. Statistical significance was defined as P<.05. SAS version 9.4 (SAS Institute Inc) was used for all analyses.

Results

In total, 21 individuals were enrolled, and 20 completed the study. Participants who completed the study were non-Hispanic Black (n=10); non-Hispanic White (n=8); Asian (n=1); or White, American Indian (n=1). All participants adhered to the protocol and reported shaving at least 5 times a week for 12 weeks using the test razor. One participant was removed after he was found to have a history of sarcoidosis, making him ineligible for the study. No study-related adverse events were reported.

Papules and Pustules—Over the course of the 12-week study, the papule count decreased significantly from baseline. Results from the investigator lesion count (see eTable 1 for key) indicated that by week 12—adjusted for number of papules at baseline—the mean percentage reduction was estimated to be 59.6% (P<.0001). A significant decrease in papule count also was observed between the baseline visit and week 8 (57.2%; P<.0001). A nonsignificant decrease was observed at week 4 (18.9%; P=.17). Only 3 participants presented with pustules at baseline, and the pustule count remained low over the course of the study. No significant change was noted at week 12 vs baseline (P=.98). Notably, there was no increase in pustule count at the end of the study compared with baseline (Table 1).

Skin Appearance—An improvement in the skin’s appearance over the course of the study from baseline was consistent with an improvement in the IGSA. The IGSA score significantly improved from a mean (SD) measurement of 2.5 (0.6) (indicating mild to moderate inflammation) at baseline to 1.4 (0.8) at week 8 (P<.0001) and 1.2 (1.1) (indicating mild inflammation to almost clear) at week 12 (P<.0001). The observed decrease in severity of skin condition and skin inflammation is shown in Figure 3.

Significant improvements were observed in every category of the PGSA at week 12 vs baseline (P≤.0007)(Table 2). At week 12, there was a significant (P≤.05) increase from baseline in participant agreement for all 22 QOL metrics describing positive shave experience, achieving results, skin feel, self-confidence, and social interactions (Figure 4), which supports the positive impact of adopting a shaving regimen with the test razor. Notably, after using the test razor for 12 weeks, men reported that they were more likely to agree with the statements “my skin felt smooth,” “my skin felt good to touch,” and “I was able to achieve a consistently good shave.” Other meaningful increases occurred in “shaving was something I looked forward to doing,” “others thought I looked clean cut,” “I looked my best for my family/others/work,” and “I felt comfortable/confident getting closer to others.” All QOL statements are shown in Figure 4.

Improvement With Novel Razor Technology—For the first time, frequent use of a novel razor technology designed specifically for men with PFB was found to significantly improve skin appearance, shave satisfaction, and QOL after 12 weeks vs baseline in participants clinically diagnosed with PFB. In men with shave-related skin irritation and razor bumps who typically wet-shaved with a razor at least 3 times a week, use of the test razor with their regular shaving preparation product 5 or more times per week for 12 weeks was associated with significant improvements from baseline in investigator lesion count, IGSA, PGSA, and Participant Quality of Life Questionnaire measurements.

Study strengths included the quantification of the change in the number of lesions and the degree of severity by a trained investigator in a prospective clinical study along with an assessment of the impact on participant QOL. A lack of a control arm could be considered a limitation of the study; however, study end points were evaluated compared with baseline, with each participant serving as their own control. Spontaneous resolution of the condition with their standard routine was considered highly unlikely in these participants; therefore, in the absence of any other changes, improvements were attributed to regular use of the test product over the course of the study. The results presented here provide strong support for the effectiveness of the new razor technology in improving the appearance of men with razor bumps and shaving irritation.

Hair Removal Tools for the Management of PFB—Although various tools and techniques have been proposed in the past for men with PFB, the current test razor technology provided unique benefits, including improvements in appearance and severity of the condition as well as a positive impact on QOL. In 1979, Conte and Lawrence⁹ evaluated the effect of using an electric hair clipper and twice-daily use of a skin-cleansing pad on the occurrence of PFB. Participants (n=96) allowed their beards to grow out for 1 month, after which they started shaving with an electric clipper with a triple O head. The authors reported a favorable response in 95% (91/96) of cases. However, the electric clippers left 1 mm of beard at the skin level,⁹ which may not be acceptable for those who prefer a clean-shaven appearance.⁶

A prospective survey of 22 men of African descent with PFB found use of a safety razor was preferred over an electric razor.¹⁰ The single-arm study evaluated use of a foil-guarded shaver (single-razor blade) in the management of PFB based on investigator lesion counts and a participant questionnaire. Participants were asked to shave at least every other day and use a specially designed preshave brush. A mean reduction in lesion counts was observed at 2 weeks (29.6%), 4 weeks (38.1%), and 6 weeks (47.1%); statistical significance was not reported. At 6 weeks, 77.3% (17/22) of participants judged the foil-guarded shaver to be superior to other shaving devices in controlling their razor bumps, and 90.9% (20/22) indicated they would recommend the shaver to others with PFB. The authors hypothesized that the guard buffered the skin from the blade, which might otherwise facilitate the penetration of ingrowing hairs and cause trauma to existing lesions.

The mean reduction in lesion count from baseline observed at week 4 was greater in the study with the foil-guarded shaver and preshave brush (38% reduction)¹⁰ than in our study (19% reduction in papule count). Different methodologies, use of a preshave brush in the earlier study, and a difference in lesion severity at baseline may have contributed to this difference. The study with the foil-guarded shaver concluded after 6 weeks, and there was a 47.1% reduction in lesion counts vs baseline.¹⁰ In contrast, the current study continued for 12 weeks, and a 59.6% reduction in lesion counts was reported. Participants from both studies reported an improved shaving experience compared with their usual practice,¹⁰ though only the current study explored the positive impact of the new razor technology on participant QOL.

Preventing Hairs From Being Cut Too Close—The closeness of the shave is believed to be a contributory factor in the development and persistence of PFB^6,8,11 based on a tendency for the distal portion of tightly curled hair shafts to re-enter the skin after shaving via transfollicular penetration.¹² Inclusion of a buffer in the razor between the sharp blades and the skin has been proposed to prevent hairs from being cut too close and causing transfollicular penetration.¹²

In the test razor used in the current study, the bridge technology acted as the buffer to prevent hairs from being cut too close to the skin and to reduce blade contact with the skin (Figure 2). Having only 2 blades also reduced the closeness of the shave compared with 5-bladed technologies,¹³ as each hair can only be pulled and cut up to a maximum of 2 times per shaving stroke. Notably, this did not impact the participants’ QOL scores related to achieving a close shave or skin feeling smooth; both attributes were significantly improved at 12 weeks vs baseline (Figure 4).

By reducing blade contact with the skin, the bridge technology in the test razor was designed to prevent excessive force from being applied to the skin through the blades. Reduced blade loading minimizes contact with and impact on sensitive skin.¹⁴ Additional design features of the test razor to minimize the impact of shaving on the skin include treatment of the 2 blades with low-friction coatings, which allows the blades to cut through the beard hair with minimal force, helping to reduce the tug-and-pull effect that may otherwise result in irritation and inflammation.^13,15 Lubrication strips before and after the blades in the test razor reduce friction between the blades and the skin to further protect the skin from the blades.¹⁵

Shaving With Multiblade Razors Does Not Exacerbate PFB—In a 1-week, split-faced, randomized study of 45 Black men, shaving with a manual 3-bladed razor was compared with use of 3 different chemical depilatory formulations.¹⁶ Shaving every other day for 1 week with the manual razor resulted in more papule formation but less irritation than use of the depilatories. The authors concluded that a study with longer duration was needed to explore the impact of shaving on papule formation in participants with a history of PFB.¹⁶

In 2013, an investigator-blinded study of 90 African American men with PFB compared the impact of different shaving regimens on the signs and symptoms of PFB over a 12-week period.⁴ Participants were randomized to 1 of 3 arms: (1) shaving 2 to 3 times per week with a triple-blade razor and standard products (control group); (2) shaving daily with a 5-bladed razor and standard products; and (3) shaving daily with a 5-bladed razor and “advanced” specific pre- and postshave products. The researchers found that the mean papule measurement significantly decreased from baseline in the advanced (P=.01) and control (P=.016) groups. Between-group comparison revealed no significant differences for papule or pustule count among each arm. For the investigator-graded severity, the change from baseline was significant for all 3 groups (P≤.04); however, the differences among groups were not significant. Importantly, these data demonstrated that PFB was not exacerbated by multiblade razors used as part of a daily shaving regimen.⁴

The findings of the current study were consistent with those of Daniel et al⁴ in that there was no exacerbation of the signs and symptoms of PFB associated with daily shaving. However, rather than requiring participants to change their entire shaving regimen, the present study only required a change of razor type. Moreover, the use of the new razor technology significantly decreased papule counts at week 12 vs the baseline measurement (P<.0001) and was associated with an improvement in subjective skin severity measurements. The participants in the present study reported significantly less burning, stinging, and itching after using the test product for 12 weeks (P<.0001).

Impact of Treatment on QOL—The current study further expanded on prior findings by combining these clinical end points with the QOL results to assess the test razor’s impact on participants’ lives. Results showed that over the course of 12 weeks, the new razor technology significantly improved the participants’ QOL in all questions related to shaving experience, achieving results, skin feel, self-confidence, and social interactions. The significant improvement in QOL included statements such as “shaving was a pleasant experience,” “I was able to achieve a consistently good shave,” and “my skin felt smooth.” Participants also reported improvements in meaningful categories such as “my shave made me feel attractive” and “I felt comfortable/confident getting closer to others.” As the current study showed, a shave regimen has the potential to change participants’ overall assessment of their QOL, a variable that must not be overlooked.

Conclusion

In men with clinically diagnosed PFB, regular shaving with a razor designed to protect the skin was found to significantly decrease lesion counts, increase shave satisfaction, and improve QOL after 12 weeks compared with their usual shaving practice (baseline measures). This razor technology provides another option to help manage PFB for men who wish to or need to continue shaving.

Acknowledgments—The clinical study was funded by the Procter & Gamble Company. Editorial writing assistance, supported financially by the Procter & Gamble Company, was provided by Gill McFeat, PhD, of McFeat Science Ltd (Devon, United Kingdom).

Pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB)(also known as razor bumps or shaving bumps)¹ is a skin condition that consists of papules resulting from ingrown hairs.² In more severe cases, papules become pustules, then abscesses, which can cause scarring.^1,2 The condition can be distressing for patients, with considerable negative impact on their daily lives.³ The condition also is associated with shaving-related stinging, burning, pruritus, and cuts on the skin.⁴

Pseudofolliculitis barbae is most common in men of African descent due to the curved nature of the hair follicle,^2,5,6 with an estimated prevalence in this population of 45% to 83%,^1,6 but it can affect men of other ethnicities.⁷ A genetic polymorphism in a gene encoding a keratin specific to the hair follicle also has been found to predispose some individuals to PFB.⁵ When hair from a curved or destabilized hair follicle is cut to form a sharp tip, it is susceptible to extrafollicular and/or transfollicular penetration,^5,6,8 as illustrated in Figure 1.

With extrafollicular or transfollicular penetration, the hair shaft re-enters or retracts into the dermis, triggering an inflammatory response that may be exacerbated by subsequent shaving.² Few studies have been published that aim to identify potential shaving solutions for individuals with PFB who elect to or need to continue shaving.

A new razor technology comprising 2 blades separated by a bridge feature has been designed specifically for men with razor bumps (SkinGuard [Procter & Gamble]). The SkinGuard razor redistributes shaving pressure so that there is less force from the blades on the skin and inflamed lesions than without the bridge, as seen in Figure 2. The razor has been designed to protect the skin from the blades, thereby minimizing the occurrence of new lesions and allowing existing lesions to heal.

The primary purpose of this study was to assess the appearance of males with razor bumps and shaving irritation when using the new razor technology in a regular shaving routine. The secondary objective was to measure satisfaction of the shaving experience when using the new razor by means of assessing itching, burning, and stinging using the participant global severity assessment (PGSA) and the impact on quality of life (QOL) measures.

Methods

Participants—Eligible participants were male, aged 20 to 60 years, and had clinically diagnosed PFB as well as symptoms of skin irritation from shaving. Participants were recruited from a dermatology clinic and via institutional review board–approved advertising.

Those eligible for inclusion in the study had a shaving routine that comprised shaving at least 3 times a week using a wet-shave, blade-razor technique accompanied by only a shave gel or foam. In addition, eligible participants had mild to moderate symptoms of skin irritation (a minimum of 10 razor bumps) from shaving based on investigator global severity assessment (IGSA) rating scales and were willing to shave at least 5 times a week during the study period. Participants could continue certain topical and systemic interventions for their skin.

Participants were excluded from the study if they had an underlying inflammatory disease that could manifest with a skin rash or were using any of these medications: topical benzoyl peroxide, topical clindamycin, topical retinoids, or oral antibiotics.

Study Design—A prospective, open-label study was conducted over a period of 12 weeks at a single site in the United States. Investigators instructed participants to shave 5 or more times per week with the test razor and to keep a daily shaving journal to track the number of shaves and compliance.

Participants were evaluated at the baseline screening visit, then at 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Evaluations included an investigator lesion count, the IGSA, and the PGSA. The PGSA was used to evaluate subjective clinical measurements (ie, indicate how much postshave burning/itching/stinging the participant was experiencing). The impact of shaving on daily life was evaluated at the baseline screening visit and at 12 weeks with the Participant Quality of Life Questionnaire comprised of 22 QOL statements. eTable 1 summarizes the investigator assessments used in the study, and eTable 2 summarizes the participant self-assessments. Both tables include the scale details and results interpretation for each assessment.

The study was approved by the local institutional review board, and all participants provided written informed consent in accordance with Title 21 of the Code of Federal Regulations, Part 50.

Study Visits—At the baseline screening visit, participants provided written informed consent and completed a prestudy shave questionnaire concerning shaving preparations, techniques, and opinions. Participants also provided a medical history, including prior and concomitant medications, and were evaluated using the inclusion/exclusion criteria. Investigators explained adverse event reporting to the participants. Participants were provided with an adequate supply of test razors for the 12-week period.

Data Analysis—Means and SDs were calculated for the study measures assessed at each visit. Analyses were performed evaluating change from baseline in repeated-measures analysis of variance models. These models were adjusted for baseline levels of the outcome measure and visit number. The magnitude of change from baseline was evaluated against a null hypothesis of 0% change. This longitudinal model adjusted for any potential differing baseline levels among participants. Statistical significance was defined as P<.05. SAS version 9.4 (SAS Institute Inc) was used for all analyses.

Results

In total, 21 individuals were enrolled, and 20 completed the study. Participants who completed the study were non-Hispanic Black (n=10); non-Hispanic White (n=8); Asian (n=1); or White, American Indian (n=1). All participants adhered to the protocol and reported shaving at least 5 times a week for 12 weeks using the test razor. One participant was removed after he was found to have a history of sarcoidosis, making him ineligible for the study. No study-related adverse events were reported.

Papules and Pustules—Over the course of the 12-week study, the papule count decreased significantly from baseline. Results from the investigator lesion count (see eTable 1 for key) indicated that by week 12—adjusted for number of papules at baseline—the mean percentage reduction was estimated to be 59.6% (P<.0001). A significant decrease in papule count also was observed between the baseline visit and week 8 (57.2%; P<.0001). A nonsignificant decrease was observed at week 4 (18.9%; P=.17). Only 3 participants presented with pustules at baseline, and the pustule count remained low over the course of the study. No significant change was noted at week 12 vs baseline (P=.98). Notably, there was no increase in pustule count at the end of the study compared with baseline (Table 1).

Skin Appearance—An improvement in the skin’s appearance over the course of the study from baseline was consistent with an improvement in the IGSA. The IGSA score significantly improved from a mean (SD) measurement of 2.5 (0.6) (indicating mild to moderate inflammation) at baseline to 1.4 (0.8) at week 8 (P<.0001) and 1.2 (1.1) (indicating mild inflammation to almost clear) at week 12 (P<.0001). The observed decrease in severity of skin condition and skin inflammation is shown in Figure 3.

Significant improvements were observed in every category of the PGSA at week 12 vs baseline (P≤.0007)(Table 2). At week 12, there was a significant (P≤.05) increase from baseline in participant agreement for all 22 QOL metrics describing positive shave experience, achieving results, skin feel, self-confidence, and social interactions (Figure 4), which supports the positive impact of adopting a shaving regimen with the test razor. Notably, after using the test razor for 12 weeks, men reported that they were more likely to agree with the statements “my skin felt smooth,” “my skin felt good to touch,” and “I was able to achieve a consistently good shave.” Other meaningful increases occurred in “shaving was something I looked forward to doing,” “others thought I looked clean cut,” “I looked my best for my family/others/work,” and “I felt comfortable/confident getting closer to others.” All QOL statements are shown in Figure 4.

Improvement With Novel Razor Technology—For the first time, frequent use of a novel razor technology designed specifically for men with PFB was found to significantly improve skin appearance, shave satisfaction, and QOL after 12 weeks vs baseline in participants clinically diagnosed with PFB. In men with shave-related skin irritation and razor bumps who typically wet-shaved with a razor at least 3 times a week, use of the test razor with their regular shaving preparation product 5 or more times per week for 12 weeks was associated with significant improvements from baseline in investigator lesion count, IGSA, PGSA, and Participant Quality of Life Questionnaire measurements.

Study strengths included the quantification of the change in the number of lesions and the degree of severity by a trained investigator in a prospective clinical study along with an assessment of the impact on participant QOL. A lack of a control arm could be considered a limitation of the study; however, study end points were evaluated compared with baseline, with each participant serving as their own control. Spontaneous resolution of the condition with their standard routine was considered highly unlikely in these participants; therefore, in the absence of any other changes, improvements were attributed to regular use of the test product over the course of the study. The results presented here provide strong support for the effectiveness of the new razor technology in improving the appearance of men with razor bumps and shaving irritation.

Hair Removal Tools for the Management of PFB—Although various tools and techniques have been proposed in the past for men with PFB, the current test razor technology provided unique benefits, including improvements in appearance and severity of the condition as well as a positive impact on QOL. In 1979, Conte and Lawrence⁹ evaluated the effect of using an electric hair clipper and twice-daily use of a skin-cleansing pad on the occurrence of PFB. Participants (n=96) allowed their beards to grow out for 1 month, after which they started shaving with an electric clipper with a triple O head. The authors reported a favorable response in 95% (91/96) of cases. However, the electric clippers left 1 mm of beard at the skin level,⁹ which may not be acceptable for those who prefer a clean-shaven appearance.⁶

A prospective survey of 22 men of African descent with PFB found use of a safety razor was preferred over an electric razor.¹⁰ The single-arm study evaluated use of a foil-guarded shaver (single-razor blade) in the management of PFB based on investigator lesion counts and a participant questionnaire. Participants were asked to shave at least every other day and use a specially designed preshave brush. A mean reduction in lesion counts was observed at 2 weeks (29.6%), 4 weeks (38.1%), and 6 weeks (47.1%); statistical significance was not reported. At 6 weeks, 77.3% (17/22) of participants judged the foil-guarded shaver to be superior to other shaving devices in controlling their razor bumps, and 90.9% (20/22) indicated they would recommend the shaver to others with PFB. The authors hypothesized that the guard buffered the skin from the blade, which might otherwise facilitate the penetration of ingrowing hairs and cause trauma to existing lesions.

The mean reduction in lesion count from baseline observed at week 4 was greater in the study with the foil-guarded shaver and preshave brush (38% reduction)¹⁰ than in our study (19% reduction in papule count). Different methodologies, use of a preshave brush in the earlier study, and a difference in lesion severity at baseline may have contributed to this difference. The study with the foil-guarded shaver concluded after 6 weeks, and there was a 47.1% reduction in lesion counts vs baseline.¹⁰ In contrast, the current study continued for 12 weeks, and a 59.6% reduction in lesion counts was reported. Participants from both studies reported an improved shaving experience compared with their usual practice,¹⁰ though only the current study explored the positive impact of the new razor technology on participant QOL.

Preventing Hairs From Being Cut Too Close—The closeness of the shave is believed to be a contributory factor in the development and persistence of PFB^6,8,11 based on a tendency for the distal portion of tightly curled hair shafts to re-enter the skin after shaving via transfollicular penetration.¹² Inclusion of a buffer in the razor between the sharp blades and the skin has been proposed to prevent hairs from being cut too close and causing transfollicular penetration.¹²

In the test razor used in the current study, the bridge technology acted as the buffer to prevent hairs from being cut too close to the skin and to reduce blade contact with the skin (Figure 2). Having only 2 blades also reduced the closeness of the shave compared with 5-bladed technologies,¹³ as each hair can only be pulled and cut up to a maximum of 2 times per shaving stroke. Notably, this did not impact the participants’ QOL scores related to achieving a close shave or skin feeling smooth; both attributes were significantly improved at 12 weeks vs baseline (Figure 4).

By reducing blade contact with the skin, the bridge technology in the test razor was designed to prevent excessive force from being applied to the skin through the blades. Reduced blade loading minimizes contact with and impact on sensitive skin.¹⁴ Additional design features of the test razor to minimize the impact of shaving on the skin include treatment of the 2 blades with low-friction coatings, which allows the blades to cut through the beard hair with minimal force, helping to reduce the tug-and-pull effect that may otherwise result in irritation and inflammation.^13,15 Lubrication strips before and after the blades in the test razor reduce friction between the blades and the skin to further protect the skin from the blades.¹⁵

Shaving With Multiblade Razors Does Not Exacerbate PFB—In a 1-week, split-faced, randomized study of 45 Black men, shaving with a manual 3-bladed razor was compared with use of 3 different chemical depilatory formulations.¹⁶ Shaving every other day for 1 week with the manual razor resulted in more papule formation but less irritation than use of the depilatories. The authors concluded that a study with longer duration was needed to explore the impact of shaving on papule formation in participants with a history of PFB.¹⁶

In 2013, an investigator-blinded study of 90 African American men with PFB compared the impact of different shaving regimens on the signs and symptoms of PFB over a 12-week period.⁴ Participants were randomized to 1 of 3 arms: (1) shaving 2 to 3 times per week with a triple-blade razor and standard products (control group); (2) shaving daily with a 5-bladed razor and standard products; and (3) shaving daily with a 5-bladed razor and “advanced” specific pre- and postshave products. The researchers found that the mean papule measurement significantly decreased from baseline in the advanced (P=.01) and control (P=.016) groups. Between-group comparison revealed no significant differences for papule or pustule count among each arm. For the investigator-graded severity, the change from baseline was significant for all 3 groups (P≤.04); however, the differences among groups were not significant. Importantly, these data demonstrated that PFB was not exacerbated by multiblade razors used as part of a daily shaving regimen.⁴

The findings of the current study were consistent with those of Daniel et al⁴ in that there was no exacerbation of the signs and symptoms of PFB associated with daily shaving. However, rather than requiring participants to change their entire shaving regimen, the present study only required a change of razor type. Moreover, the use of the new razor technology significantly decreased papule counts at week 12 vs the baseline measurement (P<.0001) and was associated with an improvement in subjective skin severity measurements. The participants in the present study reported significantly less burning, stinging, and itching after using the test product for 12 weeks (P<.0001).

Impact of Treatment on QOL—The current study further expanded on prior findings by combining these clinical end points with the QOL results to assess the test razor’s impact on participants’ lives. Results showed that over the course of 12 weeks, the new razor technology significantly improved the participants’ QOL in all questions related to shaving experience, achieving results, skin feel, self-confidence, and social interactions. The significant improvement in QOL included statements such as “shaving was a pleasant experience,” “I was able to achieve a consistently good shave,” and “my skin felt smooth.” Participants also reported improvements in meaningful categories such as “my shave made me feel attractive” and “I felt comfortable/confident getting closer to others.” As the current study showed, a shave regimen has the potential to change participants’ overall assessment of their QOL, a variable that must not be overlooked.

Conclusion

In men with clinically diagnosed PFB, regular shaving with a razor designed to protect the skin was found to significantly decrease lesion counts, increase shave satisfaction, and improve QOL after 12 weeks compared with their usual shaving practice (baseline measures). This razor technology provides another option to help manage PFB for men who wish to or need to continue shaving.

Acknowledgments—The clinical study was funded by the Procter & Gamble Company. Editorial writing assistance, supported financially by the Procter & Gamble Company, was provided by Gill McFeat, PhD, of McFeat Science Ltd (Devon, United Kingdom).

Pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB)(also known as razor bumps or shaving bumps)¹ is a skin condition that consists of papules resulting from ingrown hairs.² In more severe cases, papules become pustules, then abscesses, which can cause scarring.^1,2 The condition can be distressing for patients, with considerable negative impact on their daily lives.³ The condition also is associated with shaving-related stinging, burning, pruritus, and cuts on the skin.⁴

Pseudofolliculitis barbae is most common in men of African descent due to the curved nature of the hair follicle,^2,5,6 with an estimated prevalence in this population of 45% to 83%,^1,6 but it can affect men of other ethnicities.⁷ A genetic polymorphism in a gene encoding a keratin specific to the hair follicle also has been found to predispose some individuals to PFB.⁵ When hair from a curved or destabilized hair follicle is cut to form a sharp tip, it is susceptible to extrafollicular and/or transfollicular penetration,^5,6,8 as illustrated in Figure 1.

With extrafollicular or transfollicular penetration, the hair shaft re-enters or retracts into the dermis, triggering an inflammatory response that may be exacerbated by subsequent shaving.² Few studies have been published that aim to identify potential shaving solutions for individuals with PFB who elect to or need to continue shaving.

A new razor technology comprising 2 blades separated by a bridge feature has been designed specifically for men with razor bumps (SkinGuard [Procter & Gamble]). The SkinGuard razor redistributes shaving pressure so that there is less force from the blades on the skin and inflamed lesions than without the bridge, as seen in Figure 2. The razor has been designed to protect the skin from the blades, thereby minimizing the occurrence of new lesions and allowing existing lesions to heal.

The primary purpose of this study was to assess the appearance of males with razor bumps and shaving irritation when using the new razor technology in a regular shaving routine. The secondary objective was to measure satisfaction of the shaving experience when using the new razor by means of assessing itching, burning, and stinging using the participant global severity assessment (PGSA) and the impact on quality of life (QOL) measures.

Methods

Participants—Eligible participants were male, aged 20 to 60 years, and had clinically diagnosed PFB as well as symptoms of skin irritation from shaving. Participants were recruited from a dermatology clinic and via institutional review board–approved advertising.

Those eligible for inclusion in the study had a shaving routine that comprised shaving at least 3 times a week using a wet-shave, blade-razor technique accompanied by only a shave gel or foam. In addition, eligible participants had mild to moderate symptoms of skin irritation (a minimum of 10 razor bumps) from shaving based on investigator global severity assessment (IGSA) rating scales and were willing to shave at least 5 times a week during the study period. Participants could continue certain topical and systemic interventions for their skin.

Participants were excluded from the study if they had an underlying inflammatory disease that could manifest with a skin rash or were using any of these medications: topical benzoyl peroxide, topical clindamycin, topical retinoids, or oral antibiotics.

Study Design—A prospective, open-label study was conducted over a period of 12 weeks at a single site in the United States. Investigators instructed participants to shave 5 or more times per week with the test razor and to keep a daily shaving journal to track the number of shaves and compliance.

Participants were evaluated at the baseline screening visit, then at 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Evaluations included an investigator lesion count, the IGSA, and the PGSA. The PGSA was used to evaluate subjective clinical measurements (ie, indicate how much postshave burning/itching/stinging the participant was experiencing). The impact of shaving on daily life was evaluated at the baseline screening visit and at 12 weeks with the Participant Quality of Life Questionnaire comprised of 22 QOL statements. eTable 1 summarizes the investigator assessments used in the study, and eTable 2 summarizes the participant self-assessments. Both tables include the scale details and results interpretation for each assessment.

The study was approved by the local institutional review board, and all participants provided written informed consent in accordance with Title 21 of the Code of Federal Regulations, Part 50.

Study Visits—At the baseline screening visit, participants provided written informed consent and completed a prestudy shave questionnaire concerning shaving preparations, techniques, and opinions. Participants also provided a medical history, including prior and concomitant medications, and were evaluated using the inclusion/exclusion criteria. Investigators explained adverse event reporting to the participants. Participants were provided with an adequate supply of test razors for the 12-week period.

Data Analysis—Means and SDs were calculated for the study measures assessed at each visit. Analyses were performed evaluating change from baseline in repeated-measures analysis of variance models. These models were adjusted for baseline levels of the outcome measure and visit number. The magnitude of change from baseline was evaluated against a null hypothesis of 0% change. This longitudinal model adjusted for any potential differing baseline levels among participants. Statistical significance was defined as P<.05. SAS version 9.4 (SAS Institute Inc) was used for all analyses.

Results

In total, 21 individuals were enrolled, and 20 completed the study. Participants who completed the study were non-Hispanic Black (n=10); non-Hispanic White (n=8); Asian (n=1); or White, American Indian (n=1). All participants adhered to the protocol and reported shaving at least 5 times a week for 12 weeks using the test razor. One participant was removed after he was found to have a history of sarcoidosis, making him ineligible for the study. No study-related adverse events were reported.

Papules and Pustules—Over the course of the 12-week study, the papule count decreased significantly from baseline. Results from the investigator lesion count (see eTable 1 for key) indicated that by week 12—adjusted for number of papules at baseline—the mean percentage reduction was estimated to be 59.6% (P<.0001). A significant decrease in papule count also was observed between the baseline visit and week 8 (57.2%; P<.0001). A nonsignificant decrease was observed at week 4 (18.9%; P=.17). Only 3 participants presented with pustules at baseline, and the pustule count remained low over the course of the study. No significant change was noted at week 12 vs baseline (P=.98). Notably, there was no increase in pustule count at the end of the study compared with baseline (Table 1).

Skin Appearance—An improvement in the skin’s appearance over the course of the study from baseline was consistent with an improvement in the IGSA. The IGSA score significantly improved from a mean (SD) measurement of 2.5 (0.6) (indicating mild to moderate inflammation) at baseline to 1.4 (0.8) at week 8 (P<.0001) and 1.2 (1.1) (indicating mild inflammation to almost clear) at week 12 (P<.0001). The observed decrease in severity of skin condition and skin inflammation is shown in Figure 3.

Significant improvements were observed in every category of the PGSA at week 12 vs baseline (P≤.0007)(Table 2). At week 12, there was a significant (P≤.05) increase from baseline in participant agreement for all 22 QOL metrics describing positive shave experience, achieving results, skin feel, self-confidence, and social interactions (Figure 4), which supports the positive impact of adopting a shaving regimen with the test razor. Notably, after using the test razor for 12 weeks, men reported that they were more likely to agree with the statements “my skin felt smooth,” “my skin felt good to touch,” and “I was able to achieve a consistently good shave.” Other meaningful increases occurred in “shaving was something I looked forward to doing,” “others thought I looked clean cut,” “I looked my best for my family/others/work,” and “I felt comfortable/confident getting closer to others.” All QOL statements are shown in Figure 4.

Improvement With Novel Razor Technology—For the first time, frequent use of a novel razor technology designed specifically for men with PFB was found to significantly improve skin appearance, shave satisfaction, and QOL after 12 weeks vs baseline in participants clinically diagnosed with PFB. In men with shave-related skin irritation and razor bumps who typically wet-shaved with a razor at least 3 times a week, use of the test razor with their regular shaving preparation product 5 or more times per week for 12 weeks was associated with significant improvements from baseline in investigator lesion count, IGSA, PGSA, and Participant Quality of Life Questionnaire measurements.

Study strengths included the quantification of the change in the number of lesions and the degree of severity by a trained investigator in a prospective clinical study along with an assessment of the impact on participant QOL. A lack of a control arm could be considered a limitation of the study; however, study end points were evaluated compared with baseline, with each participant serving as their own control. Spontaneous resolution of the condition with their standard routine was considered highly unlikely in these participants; therefore, in the absence of any other changes, improvements were attributed to regular use of the test product over the course of the study. The results presented here provide strong support for the effectiveness of the new razor technology in improving the appearance of men with razor bumps and shaving irritation.

Hair Removal Tools for the Management of PFB—Although various tools and techniques have been proposed in the past for men with PFB, the current test razor technology provided unique benefits, including improvements in appearance and severity of the condition as well as a positive impact on QOL. In 1979, Conte and Lawrence⁹ evaluated the effect of using an electric hair clipper and twice-daily use of a skin-cleansing pad on the occurrence of PFB. Participants (n=96) allowed their beards to grow out for 1 month, after which they started shaving with an electric clipper with a triple O head. The authors reported a favorable response in 95% (91/96) of cases. However, the electric clippers left 1 mm of beard at the skin level,⁹ which may not be acceptable for those who prefer a clean-shaven appearance.⁶

A prospective survey of 22 men of African descent with PFB found use of a safety razor was preferred over an electric razor.¹⁰ The single-arm study evaluated use of a foil-guarded shaver (single-razor blade) in the management of PFB based on investigator lesion counts and a participant questionnaire. Participants were asked to shave at least every other day and use a specially designed preshave brush. A mean reduction in lesion counts was observed at 2 weeks (29.6%), 4 weeks (38.1%), and 6 weeks (47.1%); statistical significance was not reported. At 6 weeks, 77.3% (17/22) of participants judged the foil-guarded shaver to be superior to other shaving devices in controlling their razor bumps, and 90.9% (20/22) indicated they would recommend the shaver to others with PFB. The authors hypothesized that the guard buffered the skin from the blade, which might otherwise facilitate the penetration of ingrowing hairs and cause trauma to existing lesions.

The mean reduction in lesion count from baseline observed at week 4 was greater in the study with the foil-guarded shaver and preshave brush (38% reduction)¹⁰ than in our study (19% reduction in papule count). Different methodologies, use of a preshave brush in the earlier study, and a difference in lesion severity at baseline may have contributed to this difference. The study with the foil-guarded shaver concluded after 6 weeks, and there was a 47.1% reduction in lesion counts vs baseline.¹⁰ In contrast, the current study continued for 12 weeks, and a 59.6% reduction in lesion counts was reported. Participants from both studies reported an improved shaving experience compared with their usual practice,¹⁰ though only the current study explored the positive impact of the new razor technology on participant QOL.

Preventing Hairs From Being Cut Too Close—The closeness of the shave is believed to be a contributory factor in the development and persistence of PFB^6,8,11 based on a tendency for the distal portion of tightly curled hair shafts to re-enter the skin after shaving via transfollicular penetration.¹² Inclusion of a buffer in the razor between the sharp blades and the skin has been proposed to prevent hairs from being cut too close and causing transfollicular penetration.¹²

In the test razor used in the current study, the bridge technology acted as the buffer to prevent hairs from being cut too close to the skin and to reduce blade contact with the skin (Figure 2). Having only 2 blades also reduced the closeness of the shave compared with 5-bladed technologies,¹³ as each hair can only be pulled and cut up to a maximum of 2 times per shaving stroke. Notably, this did not impact the participants’ QOL scores related to achieving a close shave or skin feeling smooth; both attributes were significantly improved at 12 weeks vs baseline (Figure 4).

By reducing blade contact with the skin, the bridge technology in the test razor was designed to prevent excessive force from being applied to the skin through the blades. Reduced blade loading minimizes contact with and impact on sensitive skin.¹⁴ Additional design features of the test razor to minimize the impact of shaving on the skin include treatment of the 2 blades with low-friction coatings, which allows the blades to cut through the beard hair with minimal force, helping to reduce the tug-and-pull effect that may otherwise result in irritation and inflammation.^13,15 Lubrication strips before and after the blades in the test razor reduce friction between the blades and the skin to further protect the skin from the blades.¹⁵

Shaving With Multiblade Razors Does Not Exacerbate PFB—In a 1-week, split-faced, randomized study of 45 Black men, shaving with a manual 3-bladed razor was compared with use of 3 different chemical depilatory formulations.¹⁶ Shaving every other day for 1 week with the manual razor resulted in more papule formation but less irritation than use of the depilatories. The authors concluded that a study with longer duration was needed to explore the impact of shaving on papule formation in participants with a history of PFB.¹⁶

In 2013, an investigator-blinded study of 90 African American men with PFB compared the impact of different shaving regimens on the signs and symptoms of PFB over a 12-week period.⁴ Participants were randomized to 1 of 3 arms: (1) shaving 2 to 3 times per week with a triple-blade razor and standard products (control group); (2) shaving daily with a 5-bladed razor and standard products; and (3) shaving daily with a 5-bladed razor and “advanced” specific pre- and postshave products. The researchers found that the mean papule measurement significantly decreased from baseline in the advanced (P=.01) and control (P=.016) groups. Between-group comparison revealed no significant differences for papule or pustule count among each arm. For the investigator-graded severity, the change from baseline was significant for all 3 groups (P≤.04); however, the differences among groups were not significant. Importantly, these data demonstrated that PFB was not exacerbated by multiblade razors used as part of a daily shaving regimen.⁴

The findings of the current study were consistent with those of Daniel et al⁴ in that there was no exacerbation of the signs and symptoms of PFB associated with daily shaving. However, rather than requiring participants to change their entire shaving regimen, the present study only required a change of razor type. Moreover, the use of the new razor technology significantly decreased papule counts at week 12 vs the baseline measurement (P<.0001) and was associated with an improvement in subjective skin severity measurements. The participants in the present study reported significantly less burning, stinging, and itching after using the test product for 12 weeks (P<.0001).

Impact of Treatment on QOL—The current study further expanded on prior findings by combining these clinical end points with the QOL results to assess the test razor’s impact on participants’ lives. Results showed that over the course of 12 weeks, the new razor technology significantly improved the participants’ QOL in all questions related to shaving experience, achieving results, skin feel, self-confidence, and social interactions. The significant improvement in QOL included statements such as “shaving was a pleasant experience,” “I was able to achieve a consistently good shave,” and “my skin felt smooth.” Participants also reported improvements in meaningful categories such as “my shave made me feel attractive” and “I felt comfortable/confident getting closer to others.” As the current study showed, a shave regimen has the potential to change participants’ overall assessment of their QOL, a variable that must not be overlooked.

Conclusion

In men with clinically diagnosed PFB, regular shaving with a razor designed to protect the skin was found to significantly decrease lesion counts, increase shave satisfaction, and improve QOL after 12 weeks compared with their usual shaving practice (baseline measures). This razor technology provides another option to help manage PFB for men who wish to or need to continue shaving.

Acknowledgments—The clinical study was funded by the Procter & Gamble Company. Editorial writing assistance, supported financially by the Procter & Gamble Company, was provided by Gill McFeat, PhD, of McFeat Science Ltd (Devon, United Kingdom).

Data are limited on the management of atopic dermatitis (AD) in adolescents, particularly in patients with skin of color, making it important to identify factors that may improve AD management in this population. Comorbid conditions (eg, acne, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation [PIH]), extracurricular activities (eg, athletics), and experimentation with cosmetics in adolescents, all of which can undermine treatment efficacy and medication adherence, make it particularly challenging to devise a therapeutic regimen in this patient population. We review the management of AD in black adolescents, with special consideration of concomitant treatment of acne vulgaris (AV) as well as lifestyle and social choices (Table).

Prevalence and Epidemiology

Atopic dermatitis affects 13% to 25% of children and 2% to 10% of adults.^1,2 Population‐based studies in the United States show a higher prevalence of AD in black children (19.3%) compared to European American (EA) children (16.1%).^3,4

AD in Black Adolescents

Atopic dermatitis is a common skin condition that is defined as a chronic, pruritic, inflammatory dermatosis with recurrent scaling, papules, and plaques (Figure) that usually develop during infancy and early childhood.³ Although AD severity improves for some patients in adolescence, it can be a lifelong issue affecting performance in academic and occupational settings.⁵ One US study of 8015 children found that there are racial and ethnic disparities in school absences among children (age range, 2–17 years) with AD, with children with skin of color being absent more often than white children.⁶ The same study noted that black children had a 1.5-fold higher chance of being absent 6 days over a 6-month school period compared to white children. It is postulated that AD has a greater impact on quality of life (QOL) in children with skin of color, resulting in the increased number of school absences in this population.⁶

The origin of AD currently is thought to be complex and can involve skin barrier dysfunction, environmental factors, microbiome effects, genetic predisposition, and immune dysregulation.^1,4 Atopic dermatitis is a heterogeneous disease with variations in the prevalence, genetic background, and immune activation patterns across racial groups.⁴ It is now understood to be an immune-mediated disease with multiple inflammatory pathways, with type 2–associated inflammation being a primary pathway. Patients with AD have strong helper T cell (T_H2) activation, and black patients with AD have higher IgE serum levels as well as absent T_H17/T_H1 activation.⁴

Atopic dermatitis currently is seen as a defect of the epidermal barrier, with variable clinical manifestations and expressivity.⁷ Filaggrin is an epidermal barrier protein, encoded by the FLG gene, and plays a major role in barrier function by regulating pH and promoting hydration of the skin.⁴ Loss of function of the FLG gene is the most well-studied genetic risk factor for developing AD, and this mutation is seen in patients with more severe and persistent AD in addition to patients with more skin infections and allergic sensitizations.^3,4 However, in the skin of color population, FLG mutations are 6 times less common than in the EA population, despite the fact that AD is more prevalent in patients of African descent.⁴ Therefore, the role of the FLG loss-of-function mutation and AD is not as well defined in black patients, and some researchers have found no association.³ The FLG loss-of-function mutation seems to play a smaller role in black patients than in EA patients, and other genes may be involved in skin barrier dysfunction.^3,4 In a small study of patients with mild AD compared to nonaffected patients, those with AD had lower total ceramide levels in the stratum corneum of affected sites than normal skin sites in healthy individuals.⁸

Particular disturbances in the gut microbiome have the possibility of impacting the development of AD.⁹ Additionally, the development of AD may be influenced by the skin microbiome, which can change depending on body site, with fungal organisms thought to make up a large proportion of the microbiome of patients with AD. In patients with AD, there is a lack of microbial diversity and an overgrowth of Staphylococcus aureus.⁹

Diagnosis

Clinicians diagnose AD based on clinical characteristics, and the lack of objective criteria can hinder diagnosis.¹ Thus, diagnosing AD in children with dark skin can pose a particular challenge given the varied clinical presentation of AD across skin types. Severe cases of AD may not be diagnosed or treated adequately in deeply pigmented children because erythema, a defining characteristic of AD, may be hard to identify in darker skin types.¹⁰ Furthermore, clinical erythema scores among black children may be “strongly” underestimated using scoring systems such as Eczema Area and Severity Index and SCORing Atopic Dermatitis.⁴ It is estimated that the risk for severe AD may be 6 times higher in black children compared to white children.¹⁰ Additionally, patients with skin of color can present with more treatment-resistant AD.⁴

Treatment of AD

Current treatment is focused on restoring epidermal barrier function, often with topical agents, such as moisturizers containing different amounts of emollients, occlusives, and humectants; corticosteroids; calcineurin inhibitors; and antimicrobials. Emollients such as glycol stearate, glyceryl stearate, and soy sterols function as lubricants, softening the skin. Occlusive agents include petrolatum, dimethicone, and mineral oil; they act by forming a layer to slow evaporation of water. Humectants including glycerol, lactic acid, and urea function by promoting water retention.¹¹ For acute flares, mid- to high-potency topical corticosteroids are recommended. Also, topical calcineurin inhibitors such as tacrolimus and pimecrolimus may be used alone or in combination with topical steroids. Finally, bleach baths and topical mupirocin applied to the nares also have proved helpful in moderate to severe AD with secondary bacterial infections.¹¹ Phototherapy can be used in adult and pediatric patients with acute and chronic AD if traditional treatments have failed.²

Systemic agents are indicated and recommended for the subset of adult and pediatric patients in whom optimized topical regimens and/or phototherapy do not adequately provide disease control or when QOL is substantially impacted. The systemic agents effective in the pediatric population include cyclosporine, azathioprine, mycophenolate mofetil, and possibly methotrexate.¹¹ Dupilumab recently was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for patients 12 years and older with moderate to severe AD whose disease is not well controlled with topical medications.

Patients with AD are predisposed to secondary bacterial and viral infections because of their dysfunctional skin barrier; these infections most commonly are caused by S aureus and herpes simplex virus, respectively.² Systemic antibiotics are only recommended for patients with AD when there is clinical evidence of bacterial infection. In patients with evidence of eczema herpeticum, systemic antiviral agents should be used to treat the underlying herpes simplex virus infection.² Atopic dermatitis typically has been studied in white patients; however, patients with skin of color have higher frequencies of treatment-resistant AD. Further research on treatment efficacy for AD in this patient population is needed, as data are limited.⁴

Treatment of AV in Patients With AD

Two of the most prevalent skin diseases affecting the pediatric population are AD and AV, and both can remarkably impact QOL.¹² Acne is one of the most common reasons for adolescent patients to seek dermatologic care, including patients with skin of color (Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI).¹³ Thus, it is to be expected that many black adolescents with AD also will have AV. For mild to moderate acne in patients with skin of color, topical retinoids and benzoyl peroxide typically are first line.¹³ These medications can be problematic for patients with AD, as retinoids and many other acne treatments can cause dryness, which may exacerbate AD.

Moisturizers containing ceramide can be a helpful adjunctive therapy in treating acne,¹⁴ especially in patients with AD. Modifications to application of acne medications, such as using topical retinoids every other night or mixing them with moisturizers to minimize dryness, may be beneficial to these patients. Dapsone gel 7.5% used daily also may be an option for adolescents with AD and AV. A double-blind, vehicle-controlled study demonstrated that dapsone is safe and effective for patients 12 years and older with moderate acne, and patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI rated local scaling, erythema, dryness, and stinging/burning as “none” in the study.¹⁵ Another potentially helpful topical agent in patients with AD and AV is sulfacetamide, as it is not likely to cause dryness of the skin. In a small study, sodium sulfacetamide 10% and sulfur 5% in an emollient foam vehicle showed no residual film or sulfur smell and resulted in acne reduction of 50%.¹⁶

Patients with skin of color often experience PIH in AD and acne or hypopigmentation from inflammatory dermatoses including AD.^17,18 In addition to the dryness from AD and topical retinoid use, patients with skin of color may develop irritant contact dermatitis, thus leading to PIH.¹³ Dryness and irritant contact dermatitis also can be seen with the use of benzoyl peroxide in black patients. Because of these effects, gentle moisturizers are recommended, and both benzoyl peroxide and retinoids should be initiated at lower doses in patients with skin of color.¹³

For patients with severe nodulocystic acne, isotretinoin is the treatment of choice in patients with skin of color,¹³ but there is a dearth of clinical studies addressing complications seen in black adolescents on this treatment, especially with respect to those with AD. Of note, systemic antibiotics typically are initiated before isotretinoin; however, this strategy is falling out of favor due to concern for antibiotic resistance with long-term use.¹⁹

Impact of Athletics on AD in Black Adolescents

Because of the exacerbating effects of perspiration and heat causing itch and irritation in patients with AD, it is frequently advised that pediatric patients limit their participation in athletics because of the exacerbating effects of strenuous physical exercise on their disease.¹² In one study, 429 pediatric patients or their parents/guardians completed QOL questionnaires; 89% of patients 15 years and younger with severe AD reported that their disease was impacted by athletics and outdoor activities, and 86% of these pediatric patients with severe AD responded that their social lives and leisure activities were impacted.²⁰ Because adolescents often are involved in athletics or have mandatory physical education classes, AD may be isolating and may have a severe impact on self-esteem.

Aggressive treatment of AD with topical and systemic medications may be helpful in adolescents who may be reluctant to participate in sports because of teasing, bullying, or worsening of symptoms with heat or sweating.²¹ Now that dupilumab is available for adolescents, there is a chance that patients with severe and/or recalcitrant disease managed on this medication can achieve better control of their symptoms without the laboratory requirement of methotrexate and the difficulties of topical medication application, allowing them to engage in mandatory athletic classes as well as desired organized sports.

Use of Cosmetics for AD

Many adolescents experiment with cosmetics, and those with AD may use cosmetic products to cover hyperpigmented or hypopigmented lesions.¹⁸ In patients with active AD or increased sensitivity to allergens in cosmetic products, use of makeup can be a contributing factor for AD flares. Acne associated with cosmetics is especially important to consider in darker-skinned patients who may use makeup that is opaque and contains oil to conceal acne or PIH.

Allergens can be present in both cosmetics and pharmaceutical topical agents, and a Brazilian study found that approximately 89% of 813 prescription and nonprescription products (eg, topical drugs, sunscreens, moisturizers, soaps, cleansing lotions, shampoos, cosmeceuticals) contained allergens.²² Patients with AD have a higher prevalence of contact sensitization to fragrances, including balsam of Peru.²³ Some AD treatments that contain fragrances have caused further skin issues in a few patients. In one case series, 3 pediatric patients developed allergic contact dermatitis to Myroxylon pereirae (balsam of Peru) when using topical treatments for their AD, and their symptoms of scalp inflammation and alopecia resolved with discontinuation.²³

In a Dutch study, sensitization to Fragrance Mix I and M pereirae as well as other ingredients (eg, lanolin alcohol, Amerchol™ L 101 [a lanolin product]) was notably more common in pediatric patients with AD than in patients without AD; however, no data on patients with skin of color were included in this study.²⁴

Because of the increased risk of sensitization to fragrances and other ingredients in patients with AD as well as the high percentage of allergens in prescription and nonprescription products, it is important to discuss all personal care products that patients may be using, not just their cosmetic products. Also, patch testing may be helpful in determining true allergens in some patients. Patch testing is recommended for patients with treatment-resistant AD, and a recent study suggested it should be done prior to long-term use of immunosuppressive agents.²⁵ Increased steroid phobia and a push toward alternative medicines are leading both patients with AD and guardians of children with AD to look for other forms of moisturization, such as olive oil, coconut oil, sunflower seed oil, and shea butter, to decrease transepidermal water loss.^26,27 An important factor in AD treatment efficacy is patient acceptability in using what is recommended.²⁷ One study showed there was no difference in efficacy or acceptability in using a cream containing shea butter extract vs the ceramide-precursor product.²⁷ Current data show olive oil may exacerbate dry skin and AD,²⁶ and recommendation of any over-the-counter oils and butters in patients with AD should be made with great caution, as many of these products contain fragrances and other potential allergens.

Alternative Therapies for AD

Patients with AD often seek alternative or integrative treatment options, including dietary modifications and holistic remedies. Studies investigating the role of vitamins and supplements in treating AD are limited by sample size.²⁸ However, there is some evidence that may support supplementation with vitamins D and E in addressing AD symptoms. The use of probiotics in treating AD is controversial, but there are studies suggesting that the use of probiotics may prove beneficial in preventing infantile AD.²⁸ Additionally, findings from an ex vivo and in vitro study show that some conditions, including AD and acne, may benefit from the same probiotics, despite the differences in these two diseases. Both AD and acne have inflammatory and skin dysbiosis characteristics, which may be the common thread leading to both conditions potentially responding to treatment with probiotics.²⁹

Preliminary evidence indicates that supplements containing fatty acids such as docosahexaenoic acid, sea buckthorn oil, and hemp seed oil may decrease the severity of AD.²⁸ In a 20-week, randomized, single-blind, crossover study published in 2005, dietary hemp seed oil showed an improvement of clinical symptoms, including dry skin and itchiness, in patients with AD.³⁰

In light of recent legalization in several states, patients may turn to use of cannabinoid products to manage AD. In a systematic review, cannabinoid use was reportedly a therapeutic option in the treatment of AD and AV; however, the data are based on preclinical work, and there are no randomized, placebo-controlled studies to support the use of cannabinoids.³¹ Furthermore, there is great concern that use of these products in adolescents is an even larger unknown.

Final Thoughts

Eighty percent of children diagnosed with AD experience symptom improvement before their early teens³²; for those with AD during their preteen and teenage years, there can be psychological ramifications, as teenagers with AD report having fewer friends, are less socially involved, participate in fewer sports, and are absent from classes more often than their peers.⁵ In black patients with AD, school absences are even more common.⁶ Given the social and emotional impact of AD on patients with skin of color, it is imperative to treat the condition appropriately.³³ There are areas of opportunity for further research on alternate dosing of existing treatments for AV in patients with AD, further recommendations for adolescent athletes with AD, and which cosmetic and alternative medicine products may be beneficial for this population to improve their QOL.

Providers should discuss medical management in a broader context considering patients’ extracurricular activities, treatment vehicle preferences, expectations, and personal care habits. It also is important to address the many possible factors that may influence treatment adherence early on, particularly in adolescents, as these could be barriers to treatment. This article highlights considerations for treating AD and comorbid conditions that may further complicate treatment in adolescent patients with skin of color. The information provided should serve as a guide in initial counseling and management of AD in adolescents with skin of color.

Data are limited on the management of atopic dermatitis (AD) in adolescents, particularly in patients with skin of color, making it important to identify factors that may improve AD management in this population. Comorbid conditions (eg, acne, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation [PIH]), extracurricular activities (eg, athletics), and experimentation with cosmetics in adolescents, all of which can undermine treatment efficacy and medication adherence, make it particularly challenging to devise a therapeutic regimen in this patient population. We review the management of AD in black adolescents, with special consideration of concomitant treatment of acne vulgaris (AV) as well as lifestyle and social choices (Table).

Prevalence and Epidemiology

Atopic dermatitis affects 13% to 25% of children and 2% to 10% of adults.^1,2 Population‐based studies in the United States show a higher prevalence of AD in black children (19.3%) compared to European American (EA) children (16.1%).^3,4

AD in Black Adolescents

Atopic dermatitis is a common skin condition that is defined as a chronic, pruritic, inflammatory dermatosis with recurrent scaling, papules, and plaques (Figure) that usually develop during infancy and early childhood.³ Although AD severity improves for some patients in adolescence, it can be a lifelong issue affecting performance in academic and occupational settings.⁵ One US study of 8015 children found that there are racial and ethnic disparities in school absences among children (age range, 2–17 years) with AD, with children with skin of color being absent more often than white children.⁶ The same study noted that black children had a 1.5-fold higher chance of being absent 6 days over a 6-month school period compared to white children. It is postulated that AD has a greater impact on quality of life (QOL) in children with skin of color, resulting in the increased number of school absences in this population.⁶

The origin of AD currently is thought to be complex and can involve skin barrier dysfunction, environmental factors, microbiome effects, genetic predisposition, and immune dysregulation.^1,4 Atopic dermatitis is a heterogeneous disease with variations in the prevalence, genetic background, and immune activation patterns across racial groups.⁴ It is now understood to be an immune-mediated disease with multiple inflammatory pathways, with type 2–associated inflammation being a primary pathway. Patients with AD have strong helper T cell (T_H2) activation, and black patients with AD have higher IgE serum levels as well as absent T_H17/T_H1 activation.⁴

Atopic dermatitis currently is seen as a defect of the epidermal barrier, with variable clinical manifestations and expressivity.⁷ Filaggrin is an epidermal barrier protein, encoded by the FLG gene, and plays a major role in barrier function by regulating pH and promoting hydration of the skin.⁴ Loss of function of the FLG gene is the most well-studied genetic risk factor for developing AD, and this mutation is seen in patients with more severe and persistent AD in addition to patients with more skin infections and allergic sensitizations.^3,4 However, in the skin of color population, FLG mutations are 6 times less common than in the EA population, despite the fact that AD is more prevalent in patients of African descent.⁴ Therefore, the role of the FLG loss-of-function mutation and AD is not as well defined in black patients, and some researchers have found no association.³ The FLG loss-of-function mutation seems to play a smaller role in black patients than in EA patients, and other genes may be involved in skin barrier dysfunction.^3,4 In a small study of patients with mild AD compared to nonaffected patients, those with AD had lower total ceramide levels in the stratum corneum of affected sites than normal skin sites in healthy individuals.⁸

Particular disturbances in the gut microbiome have the possibility of impacting the development of AD.⁹ Additionally, the development of AD may be influenced by the skin microbiome, which can change depending on body site, with fungal organisms thought to make up a large proportion of the microbiome of patients with AD. In patients with AD, there is a lack of microbial diversity and an overgrowth of Staphylococcus aureus.⁹

Diagnosis

Clinicians diagnose AD based on clinical characteristics, and the lack of objective criteria can hinder diagnosis.¹ Thus, diagnosing AD in children with dark skin can pose a particular challenge given the varied clinical presentation of AD across skin types. Severe cases of AD may not be diagnosed or treated adequately in deeply pigmented children because erythema, a defining characteristic of AD, may be hard to identify in darker skin types.¹⁰ Furthermore, clinical erythema scores among black children may be “strongly” underestimated using scoring systems such as Eczema Area and Severity Index and SCORing Atopic Dermatitis.⁴ It is estimated that the risk for severe AD may be 6 times higher in black children compared to white children.¹⁰ Additionally, patients with skin of color can present with more treatment-resistant AD.⁴

Treatment of AD

Current treatment is focused on restoring epidermal barrier function, often with topical agents, such as moisturizers containing different amounts of emollients, occlusives, and humectants; corticosteroids; calcineurin inhibitors; and antimicrobials. Emollients such as glycol stearate, glyceryl stearate, and soy sterols function as lubricants, softening the skin. Occlusive agents include petrolatum, dimethicone, and mineral oil; they act by forming a layer to slow evaporation of water. Humectants including glycerol, lactic acid, and urea function by promoting water retention.¹¹ For acute flares, mid- to high-potency topical corticosteroids are recommended. Also, topical calcineurin inhibitors such as tacrolimus and pimecrolimus may be used alone or in combination with topical steroids. Finally, bleach baths and topical mupirocin applied to the nares also have proved helpful in moderate to severe AD with secondary bacterial infections.¹¹ Phototherapy can be used in adult and pediatric patients with acute and chronic AD if traditional treatments have failed.²

Systemic agents are indicated and recommended for the subset of adult and pediatric patients in whom optimized topical regimens and/or phototherapy do not adequately provide disease control or when QOL is substantially impacted. The systemic agents effective in the pediatric population include cyclosporine, azathioprine, mycophenolate mofetil, and possibly methotrexate.¹¹ Dupilumab recently was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for patients 12 years and older with moderate to severe AD whose disease is not well controlled with topical medications.

Patients with AD are predisposed to secondary bacterial and viral infections because of their dysfunctional skin barrier; these infections most commonly are caused by S aureus and herpes simplex virus, respectively.² Systemic antibiotics are only recommended for patients with AD when there is clinical evidence of bacterial infection. In patients with evidence of eczema herpeticum, systemic antiviral agents should be used to treat the underlying herpes simplex virus infection.² Atopic dermatitis typically has been studied in white patients; however, patients with skin of color have higher frequencies of treatment-resistant AD. Further research on treatment efficacy for AD in this patient population is needed, as data are limited.⁴

Treatment of AV in Patients With AD

Two of the most prevalent skin diseases affecting the pediatric population are AD and AV, and both can remarkably impact QOL.¹² Acne is one of the most common reasons for adolescent patients to seek dermatologic care, including patients with skin of color (Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI).¹³ Thus, it is to be expected that many black adolescents with AD also will have AV. For mild to moderate acne in patients with skin of color, topical retinoids and benzoyl peroxide typically are first line.¹³ These medications can be problematic for patients with AD, as retinoids and many other acne treatments can cause dryness, which may exacerbate AD.

Moisturizers containing ceramide can be a helpful adjunctive therapy in treating acne,¹⁴ especially in patients with AD. Modifications to application of acne medications, such as using topical retinoids every other night or mixing them with moisturizers to minimize dryness, may be beneficial to these patients. Dapsone gel 7.5% used daily also may be an option for adolescents with AD and AV. A double-blind, vehicle-controlled study demonstrated that dapsone is safe and effective for patients 12 years and older with moderate acne, and patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI rated local scaling, erythema, dryness, and stinging/burning as “none” in the study.¹⁵ Another potentially helpful topical agent in patients with AD and AV is sulfacetamide, as it is not likely to cause dryness of the skin. In a small study, sodium sulfacetamide 10% and sulfur 5% in an emollient foam vehicle showed no residual film or sulfur smell and resulted in acne reduction of 50%.¹⁶

Patients with skin of color often experience PIH in AD and acne or hypopigmentation from inflammatory dermatoses including AD.^17,18 In addition to the dryness from AD and topical retinoid use, patients with skin of color may develop irritant contact dermatitis, thus leading to PIH.¹³ Dryness and irritant contact dermatitis also can be seen with the use of benzoyl peroxide in black patients. Because of these effects, gentle moisturizers are recommended, and both benzoyl peroxide and retinoids should be initiated at lower doses in patients with skin of color.¹³

For patients with severe nodulocystic acne, isotretinoin is the treatment of choice in patients with skin of color,¹³ but there is a dearth of clinical studies addressing complications seen in black adolescents on this treatment, especially with respect to those with AD. Of note, systemic antibiotics typically are initiated before isotretinoin; however, this strategy is falling out of favor due to concern for antibiotic resistance with long-term use.¹⁹

Impact of Athletics on AD in Black Adolescents

Because of the exacerbating effects of perspiration and heat causing itch and irritation in patients with AD, it is frequently advised that pediatric patients limit their participation in athletics because of the exacerbating effects of strenuous physical exercise on their disease.¹² In one study, 429 pediatric patients or their parents/guardians completed QOL questionnaires; 89% of patients 15 years and younger with severe AD reported that their disease was impacted by athletics and outdoor activities, and 86% of these pediatric patients with severe AD responded that their social lives and leisure activities were impacted.²⁰ Because adolescents often are involved in athletics or have mandatory physical education classes, AD may be isolating and may have a severe impact on self-esteem.

Aggressive treatment of AD with topical and systemic medications may be helpful in adolescents who may be reluctant to participate in sports because of teasing, bullying, or worsening of symptoms with heat or sweating.²¹ Now that dupilumab is available for adolescents, there is a chance that patients with severe and/or recalcitrant disease managed on this medication can achieve better control of their symptoms without the laboratory requirement of methotrexate and the difficulties of topical medication application, allowing them to engage in mandatory athletic classes as well as desired organized sports.

Use of Cosmetics for AD

Many adolescents experiment with cosmetics, and those with AD may use cosmetic products to cover hyperpigmented or hypopigmented lesions.¹⁸ In patients with active AD or increased sensitivity to allergens in cosmetic products, use of makeup can be a contributing factor for AD flares. Acne associated with cosmetics is especially important to consider in darker-skinned patients who may use makeup that is opaque and contains oil to conceal acne or PIH.

Allergens can be present in both cosmetics and pharmaceutical topical agents, and a Brazilian study found that approximately 89% of 813 prescription and nonprescription products (eg, topical drugs, sunscreens, moisturizers, soaps, cleansing lotions, shampoos, cosmeceuticals) contained allergens.²² Patients with AD have a higher prevalence of contact sensitization to fragrances, including balsam of Peru.²³ Some AD treatments that contain fragrances have caused further skin issues in a few patients. In one case series, 3 pediatric patients developed allergic contact dermatitis to Myroxylon pereirae (balsam of Peru) when using topical treatments for their AD, and their symptoms of scalp inflammation and alopecia resolved with discontinuation.²³

In a Dutch study, sensitization to Fragrance Mix I and M pereirae as well as other ingredients (eg, lanolin alcohol, Amerchol™ L 101 [a lanolin product]) was notably more common in pediatric patients with AD than in patients without AD; however, no data on patients with skin of color were included in this study.²⁴

Because of the increased risk of sensitization to fragrances and other ingredients in patients with AD as well as the high percentage of allergens in prescription and nonprescription products, it is important to discuss all personal care products that patients may be using, not just their cosmetic products. Also, patch testing may be helpful in determining true allergens in some patients. Patch testing is recommended for patients with treatment-resistant AD, and a recent study suggested it should be done prior to long-term use of immunosuppressive agents.²⁵ Increased steroid phobia and a push toward alternative medicines are leading both patients with AD and guardians of children with AD to look for other forms of moisturization, such as olive oil, coconut oil, sunflower seed oil, and shea butter, to decrease transepidermal water loss.^26,27 An important factor in AD treatment efficacy is patient acceptability in using what is recommended.²⁷ One study showed there was no difference in efficacy or acceptability in using a cream containing shea butter extract vs the ceramide-precursor product.²⁷ Current data show olive oil may exacerbate dry skin and AD,²⁶ and recommendation of any over-the-counter oils and butters in patients with AD should be made with great caution, as many of these products contain fragrances and other potential allergens.

Alternative Therapies for AD

Patients with AD often seek alternative or integrative treatment options, including dietary modifications and holistic remedies. Studies investigating the role of vitamins and supplements in treating AD are limited by sample size.²⁸ However, there is some evidence that may support supplementation with vitamins D and E in addressing AD symptoms. The use of probiotics in treating AD is controversial, but there are studies suggesting that the use of probiotics may prove beneficial in preventing infantile AD.²⁸ Additionally, findings from an ex vivo and in vitro study show that some conditions, including AD and acne, may benefit from the same probiotics, despite the differences in these two diseases. Both AD and acne have inflammatory and skin dysbiosis characteristics, which may be the common thread leading to both conditions potentially responding to treatment with probiotics.²⁹

Preliminary evidence indicates that supplements containing fatty acids such as docosahexaenoic acid, sea buckthorn oil, and hemp seed oil may decrease the severity of AD.²⁸ In a 20-week, randomized, single-blind, crossover study published in 2005, dietary hemp seed oil showed an improvement of clinical symptoms, including dry skin and itchiness, in patients with AD.³⁰

In light of recent legalization in several states, patients may turn to use of cannabinoid products to manage AD. In a systematic review, cannabinoid use was reportedly a therapeutic option in the treatment of AD and AV; however, the data are based on preclinical work, and there are no randomized, placebo-controlled studies to support the use of cannabinoids.³¹ Furthermore, there is great concern that use of these products in adolescents is an even larger unknown.

Final Thoughts

Eighty percent of children diagnosed with AD experience symptom improvement before their early teens³²; for those with AD during their preteen and teenage years, there can be psychological ramifications, as teenagers with AD report having fewer friends, are less socially involved, participate in fewer sports, and are absent from classes more often than their peers.⁵ In black patients with AD, school absences are even more common.⁶ Given the social and emotional impact of AD on patients with skin of color, it is imperative to treat the condition appropriately.³³ There are areas of opportunity for further research on alternate dosing of existing treatments for AV in patients with AD, further recommendations for adolescent athletes with AD, and which cosmetic and alternative medicine products may be beneficial for this population to improve their QOL.

Providers should discuss medical management in a broader context considering patients’ extracurricular activities, treatment vehicle preferences, expectations, and personal care habits. It also is important to address the many possible factors that may influence treatment adherence early on, particularly in adolescents, as these could be barriers to treatment. This article highlights considerations for treating AD and comorbid conditions that may further complicate treatment in adolescent patients with skin of color. The information provided should serve as a guide in initial counseling and management of AD in adolescents with skin of color.

Data are limited on the management of atopic dermatitis (AD) in adolescents, particularly in patients with skin of color, making it important to identify factors that may improve AD management in this population. Comorbid conditions (eg, acne, postinflammatory hyperpigmentation [PIH]), extracurricular activities (eg, athletics), and experimentation with cosmetics in adolescents, all of which can undermine treatment efficacy and medication adherence, make it particularly challenging to devise a therapeutic regimen in this patient population. We review the management of AD in black adolescents, with special consideration of concomitant treatment of acne vulgaris (AV) as well as lifestyle and social choices (Table).

Prevalence and Epidemiology

Atopic dermatitis affects 13% to 25% of children and 2% to 10% of adults.^1,2 Population‐based studies in the United States show a higher prevalence of AD in black children (19.3%) compared to European American (EA) children (16.1%).^3,4

AD in Black Adolescents

Atopic dermatitis is a common skin condition that is defined as a chronic, pruritic, inflammatory dermatosis with recurrent scaling, papules, and plaques (Figure) that usually develop during infancy and early childhood.³ Although AD severity improves for some patients in adolescence, it can be a lifelong issue affecting performance in academic and occupational settings.⁵ One US study of 8015 children found that there are racial and ethnic disparities in school absences among children (age range, 2–17 years) with AD, with children with skin of color being absent more often than white children.⁶ The same study noted that black children had a 1.5-fold higher chance of being absent 6 days over a 6-month school period compared to white children. It is postulated that AD has a greater impact on quality of life (QOL) in children with skin of color, resulting in the increased number of school absences in this population.⁶

The origin of AD currently is thought to be complex and can involve skin barrier dysfunction, environmental factors, microbiome effects, genetic predisposition, and immune dysregulation.^1,4 Atopic dermatitis is a heterogeneous disease with variations in the prevalence, genetic background, and immune activation patterns across racial groups.⁴ It is now understood to be an immune-mediated disease with multiple inflammatory pathways, with type 2–associated inflammation being a primary pathway. Patients with AD have strong helper T cell (T_H2) activation, and black patients with AD have higher IgE serum levels as well as absent T_H17/T_H1 activation.⁴

Atopic dermatitis currently is seen as a defect of the epidermal barrier, with variable clinical manifestations and expressivity.⁷ Filaggrin is an epidermal barrier protein, encoded by the FLG gene, and plays a major role in barrier function by regulating pH and promoting hydration of the skin.⁴ Loss of function of the FLG gene is the most well-studied genetic risk factor for developing AD, and this mutation is seen in patients with more severe and persistent AD in addition to patients with more skin infections and allergic sensitizations.^3,4 However, in the skin of color population, FLG mutations are 6 times less common than in the EA population, despite the fact that AD is more prevalent in patients of African descent.⁴ Therefore, the role of the FLG loss-of-function mutation and AD is not as well defined in black patients, and some researchers have found no association.³ The FLG loss-of-function mutation seems to play a smaller role in black patients than in EA patients, and other genes may be involved in skin barrier dysfunction.^3,4 In a small study of patients with mild AD compared to nonaffected patients, those with AD had lower total ceramide levels in the stratum corneum of affected sites than normal skin sites in healthy individuals.⁸

Particular disturbances in the gut microbiome have the possibility of impacting the development of AD.⁹ Additionally, the development of AD may be influenced by the skin microbiome, which can change depending on body site, with fungal organisms thought to make up a large proportion of the microbiome of patients with AD. In patients with AD, there is a lack of microbial diversity and an overgrowth of Staphylococcus aureus.⁹

Diagnosis

Clinicians diagnose AD based on clinical characteristics, and the lack of objective criteria can hinder diagnosis.¹ Thus, diagnosing AD in children with dark skin can pose a particular challenge given the varied clinical presentation of AD across skin types. Severe cases of AD may not be diagnosed or treated adequately in deeply pigmented children because erythema, a defining characteristic of AD, may be hard to identify in darker skin types.¹⁰ Furthermore, clinical erythema scores among black children may be “strongly” underestimated using scoring systems such as Eczema Area and Severity Index and SCORing Atopic Dermatitis.⁴ It is estimated that the risk for severe AD may be 6 times higher in black children compared to white children.¹⁰ Additionally, patients with skin of color can present with more treatment-resistant AD.⁴

Treatment of AD

Current treatment is focused on restoring epidermal barrier function, often with topical agents, such as moisturizers containing different amounts of emollients, occlusives, and humectants; corticosteroids; calcineurin inhibitors; and antimicrobials. Emollients such as glycol stearate, glyceryl stearate, and soy sterols function as lubricants, softening the skin. Occlusive agents include petrolatum, dimethicone, and mineral oil; they act by forming a layer to slow evaporation of water. Humectants including glycerol, lactic acid, and urea function by promoting water retention.¹¹ For acute flares, mid- to high-potency topical corticosteroids are recommended. Also, topical calcineurin inhibitors such as tacrolimus and pimecrolimus may be used alone or in combination with topical steroids. Finally, bleach baths and topical mupirocin applied to the nares also have proved helpful in moderate to severe AD with secondary bacterial infections.¹¹ Phototherapy can be used in adult and pediatric patients with acute and chronic AD if traditional treatments have failed.²

Systemic agents are indicated and recommended for the subset of adult and pediatric patients in whom optimized topical regimens and/or phototherapy do not adequately provide disease control or when QOL is substantially impacted. The systemic agents effective in the pediatric population include cyclosporine, azathioprine, mycophenolate mofetil, and possibly methotrexate.¹¹ Dupilumab recently was approved by the US Food and Drug Administration for patients 12 years and older with moderate to severe AD whose disease is not well controlled with topical medications.

Patients with AD are predisposed to secondary bacterial and viral infections because of their dysfunctional skin barrier; these infections most commonly are caused by S aureus and herpes simplex virus, respectively.² Systemic antibiotics are only recommended for patients with AD when there is clinical evidence of bacterial infection. In patients with evidence of eczema herpeticum, systemic antiviral agents should be used to treat the underlying herpes simplex virus infection.² Atopic dermatitis typically has been studied in white patients; however, patients with skin of color have higher frequencies of treatment-resistant AD. Further research on treatment efficacy for AD in this patient population is needed, as data are limited.⁴

Treatment of AV in Patients With AD

Two of the most prevalent skin diseases affecting the pediatric population are AD and AV, and both can remarkably impact QOL.¹² Acne is one of the most common reasons for adolescent patients to seek dermatologic care, including patients with skin of color (Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI).¹³ Thus, it is to be expected that many black adolescents with AD also will have AV. For mild to moderate acne in patients with skin of color, topical retinoids and benzoyl peroxide typically are first line.¹³ These medications can be problematic for patients with AD, as retinoids and many other acne treatments can cause dryness, which may exacerbate AD.

Moisturizers containing ceramide can be a helpful adjunctive therapy in treating acne,¹⁴ especially in patients with AD. Modifications to application of acne medications, such as using topical retinoids every other night or mixing them with moisturizers to minimize dryness, may be beneficial to these patients. Dapsone gel 7.5% used daily also may be an option for adolescents with AD and AV. A double-blind, vehicle-controlled study demonstrated that dapsone is safe and effective for patients 12 years and older with moderate acne, and patients with Fitzpatrick skin types IV to VI rated local scaling, erythema, dryness, and stinging/burning as “none” in the study.¹⁵ Another potentially helpful topical agent in patients with AD and AV is sulfacetamide, as it is not likely to cause dryness of the skin. In a small study, sodium sulfacetamide 10% and sulfur 5% in an emollient foam vehicle showed no residual film or sulfur smell and resulted in acne reduction of 50%.¹⁶

Patients with skin of color often experience PIH in AD and acne or hypopigmentation from inflammatory dermatoses including AD.^17,18 In addition to the dryness from AD and topical retinoid use, patients with skin of color may develop irritant contact dermatitis, thus leading to PIH.¹³ Dryness and irritant contact dermatitis also can be seen with the use of benzoyl peroxide in black patients. Because of these effects, gentle moisturizers are recommended, and both benzoyl peroxide and retinoids should be initiated at lower doses in patients with skin of color.¹³

For patients with severe nodulocystic acne, isotretinoin is the treatment of choice in patients with skin of color,¹³ but there is a dearth of clinical studies addressing complications seen in black adolescents on this treatment, especially with respect to those with AD. Of note, systemic antibiotics typically are initiated before isotretinoin; however, this strategy is falling out of favor due to concern for antibiotic resistance with long-term use.¹⁹

Impact of Athletics on AD in Black Adolescents

Because of the exacerbating effects of perspiration and heat causing itch and irritation in patients with AD, it is frequently advised that pediatric patients limit their participation in athletics because of the exacerbating effects of strenuous physical exercise on their disease.¹² In one study, 429 pediatric patients or their parents/guardians completed QOL questionnaires; 89% of patients 15 years and younger with severe AD reported that their disease was impacted by athletics and outdoor activities, and 86% of these pediatric patients with severe AD responded that their social lives and leisure activities were impacted.²⁰ Because adolescents often are involved in athletics or have mandatory physical education classes, AD may be isolating and may have a severe impact on self-esteem.

Aggressive treatment of AD with topical and systemic medications may be helpful in adolescents who may be reluctant to participate in sports because of teasing, bullying, or worsening of symptoms with heat or sweating.²¹ Now that dupilumab is available for adolescents, there is a chance that patients with severe and/or recalcitrant disease managed on this medication can achieve better control of their symptoms without the laboratory requirement of methotrexate and the difficulties of topical medication application, allowing them to engage in mandatory athletic classes as well as desired organized sports.

Use of Cosmetics for AD

Many adolescents experiment with cosmetics, and those with AD may use cosmetic products to cover hyperpigmented or hypopigmented lesions.¹⁸ In patients with active AD or increased sensitivity to allergens in cosmetic products, use of makeup can be a contributing factor for AD flares. Acne associated with cosmetics is especially important to consider in darker-skinned patients who may use makeup that is opaque and contains oil to conceal acne or PIH.

Allergens can be present in both cosmetics and pharmaceutical topical agents, and a Brazilian study found that approximately 89% of 813 prescription and nonprescription products (eg, topical drugs, sunscreens, moisturizers, soaps, cleansing lotions, shampoos, cosmeceuticals) contained allergens.²² Patients with AD have a higher prevalence of contact sensitization to fragrances, including balsam of Peru.²³ Some AD treatments that contain fragrances have caused further skin issues in a few patients. In one case series, 3 pediatric patients developed allergic contact dermatitis to Myroxylon pereirae (balsam of Peru) when using topical treatments for their AD, and their symptoms of scalp inflammation and alopecia resolved with discontinuation.²³

In a Dutch study, sensitization to Fragrance Mix I and M pereirae as well as other ingredients (eg, lanolin alcohol, Amerchol™ L 101 [a lanolin product]) was notably more common in pediatric patients with AD than in patients without AD; however, no data on patients with skin of color were included in this study.²⁴

Because of the increased risk of sensitization to fragrances and other ingredients in patients with AD as well as the high percentage of allergens in prescription and nonprescription products, it is important to discuss all personal care products that patients may be using, not just their cosmetic products. Also, patch testing may be helpful in determining true allergens in some patients. Patch testing is recommended for patients with treatment-resistant AD, and a recent study suggested it should be done prior to long-term use of immunosuppressive agents.²⁵ Increased steroid phobia and a push toward alternative medicines are leading both patients with AD and guardians of children with AD to look for other forms of moisturization, such as olive oil, coconut oil, sunflower seed oil, and shea butter, to decrease transepidermal water loss.^26,27 An important factor in AD treatment efficacy is patient acceptability in using what is recommended.²⁷ One study showed there was no difference in efficacy or acceptability in using a cream containing shea butter extract vs the ceramide-precursor product.²⁷ Current data show olive oil may exacerbate dry skin and AD,²⁶ and recommendation of any over-the-counter oils and butters in patients with AD should be made with great caution, as many of these products contain fragrances and other potential allergens.

Alternative Therapies for AD

Patients with AD often seek alternative or integrative treatment options, including dietary modifications and holistic remedies. Studies investigating the role of vitamins and supplements in treating AD are limited by sample size.²⁸ However, there is some evidence that may support supplementation with vitamins D and E in addressing AD symptoms. The use of probiotics in treating AD is controversial, but there are studies suggesting that the use of probiotics may prove beneficial in preventing infantile AD.²⁸ Additionally, findings from an ex vivo and in vitro study show that some conditions, including AD and acne, may benefit from the same probiotics, despite the differences in these two diseases. Both AD and acne have inflammatory and skin dysbiosis characteristics, which may be the common thread leading to both conditions potentially responding to treatment with probiotics.²⁹

Preliminary evidence indicates that supplements containing fatty acids such as docosahexaenoic acid, sea buckthorn oil, and hemp seed oil may decrease the severity of AD.²⁸ In a 20-week, randomized, single-blind, crossover study published in 2005, dietary hemp seed oil showed an improvement of clinical symptoms, including dry skin and itchiness, in patients with AD.³⁰

In light of recent legalization in several states, patients may turn to use of cannabinoid products to manage AD. In a systematic review, cannabinoid use was reportedly a therapeutic option in the treatment of AD and AV; however, the data are based on preclinical work, and there are no randomized, placebo-controlled studies to support the use of cannabinoids.³¹ Furthermore, there is great concern that use of these products in adolescents is an even larger unknown.

Final Thoughts

Eighty percent of children diagnosed with AD experience symptom improvement before their early teens³²; for those with AD during their preteen and teenage years, there can be psychological ramifications, as teenagers with AD report having fewer friends, are less socially involved, participate in fewer sports, and are absent from classes more often than their peers.⁵ In black patients with AD, school absences are even more common.⁶ Given the social and emotional impact of AD on patients with skin of color, it is imperative to treat the condition appropriately.³³ There are areas of opportunity for further research on alternate dosing of existing treatments for AV in patients with AD, further recommendations for adolescent athletes with AD, and which cosmetic and alternative medicine products may be beneficial for this population to improve their QOL.

Providers should discuss medical management in a broader context considering patients’ extracurricular activities, treatment vehicle preferences, expectations, and personal care habits. It also is important to address the many possible factors that may influence treatment adherence early on, particularly in adolescents, as these could be barriers to treatment. This article highlights considerations for treating AD and comorbid conditions that may further complicate treatment in adolescent patients with skin of color. The information provided should serve as a guide in initial counseling and management of AD in adolescents with skin of color.